Which deck for which terrain?
“You need the right tool for every job,” my father-in-law always says. And he’s right. When it comes to longboards, there are different “tools”—that is, equipment for various riding styles and techniques. The board itself, the “deck,” comes in a wide variety of shapes and constructions. Unfortunately, despite numerous attempts, a “jack-of-all-trades” has not yet been invented.
Longboard-Decks for cruising
Cruising [> Fig. 03], riding casually from A to B, can be done with any longboard. However, the focus here is on style, maneuverability, and handling. That’s why particularly attractive shapes, such as pintails [> Fig. 03], and shorter decks with a kicktail are preferred as cruisers.
The athletic demands on riding performance are relatively low. Therefore, these decks are perfectly adequate as solid wood constructions, unless strong flex—i.e., bending—is desired. A solid wood board cannot withstand that for long. For that, composite constructions—i.e., wood cores with reinforcement layers of glass or carbon fiber on the top and bottom—are necessary.
The right freeride shape
Freeriding [> Fig. 02], riding fast and sliding down steep streets, where the focus is purely on the flow and not on competing for speed—requires decks with exceptional foot grip. A pronounced concave underfoot and a low center of gravity are essential. At the same time, the board should remain agile and allow for deep leaning.
In addition to the pronounced longitudinal concave, freeride boards are sometimes equipped with an elongated, central bulge—the “W-concave”—which promises better support for the ball of the foot. They also often feature lowered standing areas.
Specifically, in the form of > Rocker [> Fig. 05], a continuous road-side curvature in the longitudinal direction, > Dropdown [> Fig. 06], i.e., with wave-like bending radii, each just behind the trucks, > Drop-through [> Fig. 07], a cutout for mounting the truck baseplate on top of, rather than under, the deck.
The lower center of gravity and proximity to the road stabilize steering at high speeds, but naturally also bring the wheels closer to the deck. This means your feet can easily come into contact with the board while steering and get caught, causing what’s known as a wheelbite. That’s why freeride decks feature cutouts [> Fig. 02A], meaning they’re cut out in the area where the deck bends during steering. This results in the characteristic shape of these decks.
For freeriding, a slight flex [> Fig. 09] in the deck is beneficial, as it dampens vibrations at high speeds without causing the deck to rock. Many models feature mini-kicks—that is, a stub nose and tail—to make them versatile enough to be used as hybrids for dancing tricks as well.
Maximum speed with the downhill deck
Downhill [> Fig. 01] refers to riding fast down steep mountain roads to reach maximum speeds. That’s why downhill decks are racing machines designed for controlled high-speed riding in competition with other riders. This requires maximum steering precision, grip, and directional stability. That’s why downhill decks are usually built with minimal, damping flex and high torsional stiffness. Composite materials or solid wood constructions are standard. Downhill decks are usually very wide to provide effective leverage on the wide axle.
Many models do away with the nose and tail and include only what is truly necessary: a deep concave that keeps the foot position secure even under high centrifugal force. Many riders prefer a higher setup and the ability to stand close to the trucks for more precise steering. This requirement is met with full-shapes [> Fig. 01], i.e., decks without cutouts. For the wheels, either wheel wells [> Fig. 01 A] are sanded into the bottom of the deck, or “wheel wells”—also called fenders or flares [> Fig. 08]—are provided to allow for deeper leans or sharper turns without the wheel touching the board. Many downhill decks incorporate additional features from the freeride sector to qualify as hybrids.
Dancing-decks - Time to dance!
Dancing [> Fig. 04], i.e., performing step sequences and tricks, requires decks with medium to strong flex for cushioning and to create a trampoline effect. In addition, dancer decks are often slightly longer to provide enough space for a cross step, for example, and because their inertia facilitates many tricks (such as manuals). An overly deep concave isn’t necessary, as it tends to restrict foot movement. For the same reason, many dancer decks are only partially covered with grip tape. A generous nose and tail—that is, overhangs extending beyond the trucks—are particularly important to provide the necessary leverage for tricks (such as manuals or shovits). These decks are usually constructed as composites so that constant flexing does not wear the board out over time.
– Dr.-Ing. Björn Hekmati –